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ISTANBUL
 There, God and human, nature
and art are together, they have created such a perfect place that
it is valuable to see." Lamartine’s famous poetic line
reveals his love for Istanbul, describing the embracing of two
continents, with one arm reaching out to Asia and the other to
Europe.
Istanbul,
once known as the capital of capital cities, has many unique
features. It is the only city in the world to straddle two
continents, and the only one to have been a capital during two
consecutive empires - Christian and Islamic. Once capital of the
Ottoman Empire, Istanbul still remains the commercial, historical
and cultural pulse of Turkey, and its beauty lies in its ability
to embrace its contradictions. Ancient and modern, religious and
secular, Asia and Europe, mystical and earthly all co-exist here.
Its
variety is one of Istanbul’s greatest attractions: The ancient
mosques, palaces, museums and bazaars reflect its diverse history.
The thriving shopping area of Taksim buzzes with life and
entertainment. And the serene beauty of the Bosphorus, Princes
Islands and parks bring a touch of peace to the otherwise chaotic
metropolis.
Districts
Adalar,
Avcýlar, Bagcýlar, Bahcelievler, Bakýrkoy, Besiktas, Bayrampasa,
Beykoz, Beyoglu, Eminonu, Eyub, Fatih, Gaziosmanpasa, Kadýkoy,
Kagithane, Kartal, Kucukcekmece, Pendik, Sarýyer, Sisli, Umraniye,
Uskudar, Zeytinburnu, Buyukcekmece, Catalca, Silivri, Sile,
Esenler, Gungoren, Maltepe, Sultanbeyli, Tuzla
Golden
Horn
 This horn-shaped estuary
divides European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbours in the
world, it was once the centre for the Byzantine and Ottoman navies
and commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive parks and
promenades line the shores, a picturesque scene especially as the
sun goes down over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighbourhoods
midway up the Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with
old wooden houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine
and Ottoman times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener and a
little further up the Golden Horn at Eyup, are some wonderful
examples of Ottoman architecture. Muslim pilgrims from all over
the world visit Eyup Camii and Tomb of Eyup, the Prophet
Mohammed’s standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest places
in Islam. The area is a still a popular burial place, and the
hills above the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones
interspersed with ornate Ottoman stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe,
atop the hill overlooking the shrine and the Golden Horn, is a
wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility of the view.
Beyoglu
and Taksim
 Beyoglu is an interesting
example of a district with European-influenced architecture, from
a century before. Europe’s second oldest subway, Tunel was built
by the French in 1875, must be also one of the shortest –
offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel is the
Galata district, whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols of
Istanbul, and the top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view
of the city.
From
the Tunel area to Taksim square is one of the city’s focal
points for shopping, entertainment and urban promenading: Istiklal
Cadesi is a fine example of the contrasts and compositions of
Istanbul; fashion shops, bookshops, cinemas, markets, restaurants
and even hand-carts selling trinkets and simit (sesame bread snack)
ensure that the street is packed throughout the day until late
into the night. The old tramcars re-entered into service, which
shuttle up and down this fascinating street, and otherwise the
street is entirely pedestrianised. There are old embassy buildings,
Galatasaray High School, the colorful ambience of Balik Pazari (Fish
Bazaar) and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage). Also on
this street is the oldest church in the area, St Mary’s Draperis
dating back to 1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine,
demolished and then rebuilt in 1913.
The street ends at Taksim Square, a huge open plaza, the hub of
modern Istanbul and always crowded, crowned with an imposing
monument celebrating Ataturk and the War of Independence. The main
terminal of the new subway is under the square, adjacent is a
noisy bus terminal, and at the north end is the Ataturk Cultural
Centre, one of the venues of the Istanbul Theatre Festival.
Several five-star hotels are dotted around this area, like the
Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its kind in the
city). North of the square is the Istanbul Military Museum.
Taksim
and Beyoglu have for centuries been the centre of nightlife, and
now there are many lively bars and clubs off Istiklal Cadesi,
including some of the only gay venues in the city. Beyoglu is also
the centre of the more bohemian arts scene.
Sultanahmet
 Many places of tourist
interest are concentrated in Sultanahmet, heart of the Imperial
Centre of the Ottoman Empire. The most important places in this
area, all of which are described in detail in the “Places of
Interest” section, are Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofia, Sultan Ahmet
Camii (the Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Kapali Carsi (Covered
Market), Yerebatan Sarnici and the Museum of Islamic Art.
In addition to this wonderful selection of historical and
architectural sites, Sultanahmet also has a large concentration of
carpet and souvenir shops, hotels and guesthouses, cafes, bars and
restaurants, and travel agents.
Ortakoy
 Ortakoy was a resort for the
Ottoman rulers because of its attractive location on the Bosphorus,
and is still a popular spot for residents and visitors. The
village is within a triangle of a mosque, church and synagogue,
and is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye, Princess
Hotel.
The name Ortakoy reflects the university students and teachers who
would gather to drink tea and discuss life, when it was just a
small fishing village. These days, however, that scene has
developed into a suburb with an increasing amount of expensive
restaurants, bars, shops and a huge market. The fishing, however,
lives on and the area is popular with local anglers, and there is
now a huge waterfront tea-house which is crammed at weekends and
holidays.
Sariyer
The
first sight of Sariyer is where the Bosphorus connects with the
Black Sea, after the bend in the river after Tarabya. Around this
area, old summer houses, embassies and fish restaurants line the
river, and a narrow road which separates it from Buyukdere,
continues along to the beaches of Kilyos.
Sariyer and Rumeli Kavađý are the final wharfs along the
European side visited by the Bosphorus boat trips. Both these
districts, famous for their fish restaurants along with Anadolu
Kavagi, get very crowded at weekends and holidays with Istanbul
residents escaping the city.
After
these points, the Bosphorus is lined with tree-covered cliffs and
little habitation. The Sadberk Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer,
is an interesting place to visit; a collection of archaeological
and ethnographic items, housed in two wooden houses. A few
kilometers away is the huge Belgrade Forest, once a haunting
ground of the Ottomans, and now a popular weekend retreat into the
largest forest area in the city.
Uskudar
 Relatively unknown to tourists,
the suburb of Uskudar, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, is one
of the most attractive suburbs. Religiously conservative in its
background, it has a tranquil atmosphere and some fine examples of
imperial and domestic architecture.
The
Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry pier, on a
high platform with a huge covered porch in front, often occupied
by older local men watching life around them. Opposite this is
Yeni Valide Camii, built in 1710, and the Valide Sultan’s green
tomb rather like a giant birdcage. The Cinili Mosque takes its
name from the beautiful tiles which decorate the interior, and was
built in 1640.
Apart
from places of religious interest, Uskudar is also well known as a
shopping area, with old market streets selling traditional local
produce, and a good flea market with second hand furniture. There
are plenty of good restaurants and cafes with great views of the
Bosphorus and the rest of the city, along the quayside. In the
direction of Haydarpasa is the Karaca Ahmet Cemetery, the largest
Muslim graveyard in Istanbul. The front of the Camlica hills lie
at the ridge of area and also offer great panoramic views of the
islands and river.
Kadikoy
Further
south along the Bosphorus towards the Sea of Marmara, Kadikoy has
developed into a lively area with up-market shopping, eating and
entertainment making it popular especially with wealthy locals.
Once prominent in the history of Christianity, the 5th century
hosted important consul meetings here, but there are few reminders
of that age. It is one of the improved districts of Istanbul over
the last century, and fashionable area to promenade along the
waterfront in the evenings, especially around the marinas and
yacht clubs.
Bagdat
Caddesi is one of the most trendy – and label-conscious –
fashion shopping streets, and for more down-to-earth goods, the
Gen Azim Gunduz Caddesi is the best place for clothes, and the Bit
Pazari on Ozelellik Sokak is good for browsing through junk. In
the district of Moda, is the Benadam art gallery, as well as many
foreign cuisine restaurants and cafes.
Haydarpasa
To
the north of Kadikoy is Haydarpasa, and the train station built in
1908 with Prussain-style architecture which was the first stop
along the Baghdad railway. Now it is the main station going to
eastbound destinations both within Turkey, and internationally.
There are tombs and monuments dedicated to the English and French
soldiers who lost their lives during the Crimean War (1854-56),
near the military hospital. The north-west wing of the 19th
Century Selimiye Barracks once housed the hospital, used by
Florence Nightingale to care for soldiers, and remains to honour
her memory.
Polonezkoy
Polonezkoy,
although still within the city, is 25 km. away from the centre and
not easy to reach by public transport. Translated as “village of
the Poles”, the village has a fascinating history: It was
established in 1848 by Prince Czartorisky, leader of the Polish
nationals who was granted exile in the Ottoman Empire to escape
oppression in the Balkans. During his exile, he succeeded in
establishing a community of Balkans, which still survives, on the
plot of land sold to him by a local monastery.
Since
the 1970s the village has become a popular place with local
Istanbulites, who buy their pig meat there (pig being forbidden
under Islamic law and therefore difficult to get elsewhere). All
the Poles have since left the village, and the place is inhabited
now by wealthy city people, living in the few remaining Central
European style wooden houses with pretty balconies.
What
attracts most visitors to Polonezkoy is its vast green expanse,
which was designated Istanbul’s first national park, and the
walks though forests with streams and wooden bridges. Because of
its popularity, it gets crowded at weekends and the hotels are
usually full.
Kilyos
Kilyos
is the nearest beach resort to the city, on the Black Sea coast on
the European side of the Bosphorus. Once a Greek fishing village,
it has quickly been developed as a holiday-home development, and
gets very crowded in summer. Because of its ease to get there,
25km and plenty of public transport, it is good for a day trip,
and is a popular weekend getaway with plenty of hotels, and a
couple of campsites.
Sile
A
pleasant, small holiday town, Sile lies 50km from Uskudar on the
Black Sea coast and some people even live here and commute into
Istanbul. The white sandy beaches are easily accessible from the
main highway, lying on the west, as well as a series of small
beaches at the east end. The town itself if perched on a cliff top
over looking the bay tiny island. There is an interesting French-built
black-and-white striped lighthouse, and 14th century Genoese
castle on the nearby island. Apart from its popular beaches, the
town is also famous for its craft; Sile bezi, a white muslin
fabric a little like cheesecloth, which the local women embroider
and sell their products on the street, as well as all over Turkey.
The
town has plenty of accommodation available, hotels, guest houses
and pensions, although can get very crowded at weekends and
holidays as it is very popular with people from Istanbul for a
getaway, especially in the summer. There are small restaurants and
bars in the town.
Prince’s
Islands
 Also known as Istanbul Islands,
there are eight within one hour from the city, in the Marmara Sea.
Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas and Bostanci, with
more services during the summer. These islands, on which
monasteries were established during the Byzantine period, was a
popular summer retreat for palace officials. It is still a popular
escape from the city, with wealthier owning summer houses.
Buyukada
The largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island). Large
wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy
Greek and Armernian bankers built them as holiday villas. The
island has always been a place predominantly inhabited by
minorities, hence Islam has never had a strong presence here.
Buyukada
has long had a history of people coming here in exile or retreat;
its most famous guest being Leon Trotsky, who stayed for four
years writing ‘The History of the Russian Revolution’. The
monastery of St George also played host to the granddaughter of
Empress Irene, and the royal princess Zoe, in 1012.
The
island consists of two hills, both surmounted by monasteries, with
a valley between. Motor vehicles are banned, so getting around the
island can be done by graceful horse and carriage, leaving from
the main square off Isa Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The
southern hill, Yule Tepe, is the quieter of the two and also home
of St George’s Monastery. It consists of a series of chapels on
three levels, the site of which is a building dating back to the
12th century. In Byzantine times it was used as an asylum, with
iron rings on the church floors used to restrain patients. On the
northern hill is the monastery Isa Tepe, a 19th century house.
The
entire island is lively and colourful, with many restaurants,
hotels, tea houses and shops. There are huge well-kept houses,
trim gardens, and pine groves, as well as plenty of beach and
picnic areas.
 Burgazada Smaller and less of a tourist
infrastructure is Burgazada. The famous Turkish novelist, Sait
Faik Abasiyanik lived here, and his house has been turned into a
museum dedicated to his work, and retains a remarkable tranquil
and hallowed atmosphere.
Heybeliada
‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is loved for
its natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious
and fashionable water sports club in the northwest of the island.
One of its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of
Theology, with an important collection of Byzantine manuscripts.
The school sits loftily on the northern hill, but permission is
needed to enter, from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener.
The Deniz Harp Okulu, the Naval High School, is on the east side
of the waterfront near the jetty, which was originally the Naval
War Academy set up in 1852, then a high school since 1985. Walking
and cycling are popular here, plus isolated beaches as well as the
public Yoruk Beach, set in a magnificent bay. There are plenty of
good local restaurants and tea houses, especially along Ayyildiz
Caddesi, and the atmosphere is one of a close community.
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